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Click here to request an estimate for electrical work
Most older homes have electrical systems that are in perfectly good working order
– but completely inadequate by modern standards. They have too little power, too few circuits and far too few outlets.
Even if the electrical service in the home has been upgraded in the last 25 years, more circuits may be needed to keep up
with the demand created by today’s multitude of electrical conveniences. Few homes built before World War I were
wired for electricity. Circuits were added later, usually gouged into plaster walls or run behind baseboards. In the 1920s
and 1930s, most new homes were planned for 40 amps. The next jump was to four 15-amp circuits, or 60 amps total power. Many
rooms had only a single duplex receptacle and a switched light fixture. By the 1950s, 100 amps was considered adequate power,
unless the plan included an electric range or electric heat. Since the 1970s, 150 amps has been considered the minimum for
a small home and 200 amps a better choice for most homes.
If
the ampacity available isn’t enough to carry the planned loads for your home improvement, you’ll need a new service
panel, and possibly a larger service drop from the electric company. If there’s nothing wrong with the existing electrical
system, you can just leave it in place. Then upgrade by adding more circuits and outlets and the new electrical service panel.
We will be able to calculate what size panel you’ll need to have us install. While doing that math, we can
also figure the most efficient way to run circuits to new light fixtures, appliances and outlets.
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Adding Outlets and Switches Most rooms in old houses have a single electrical
outlet, and all the outlets in the house may be on the same 15-amp circuit. That’s enough power for a few lamps and
not much more. It certainly won’t support a modern lifestyle. You may be able to turn on the lights and watch TV in
the evening, but forget the microwave popcorn! The NEC sets standards for residential electrical outlets. These standards
may or may not be enforced in home improvement projects in your community. The degree that these regulations affect your project
may be a matter for negotiation between the Parko Home Renovations and the building department. Parko Home
Renovations has the experience in negotiating with building inspectors. Remember, however, that the code exists for a
reason and most of what it requires is simply good professional practice. Spacing of outlets Spacing of Outlets
– In most rooms, the code requires that no point along the floor line be more than 6' from a receptacle. That means
you need an outlet at least every 12' along walls. Floor outlets don’t help meet this requirement unless they’re
near the wall. Different standards apply to kitchens, bathrooms and laundry rooms. Spacing in hallways can be 20' and closets
don’t need any outlets at all. Spacing of outlets - kitchens Kitchens – Plan at least two 20-amp small
appliance circuits to serve the kitchen, pantry and dining area. These circuits are in addition to circuits used by the refrigerator,
dishwasher, oven, range, garbage disposer and lighting. Every kitchen counter wider than 12" needs at least one outlet.
No point on a kitchen counter can be more than 24" from an outlet. That means you need at outlet at least every 4' over
counters. Outlets have to be mounted on a wall, not face-up in the counter. The outlet next to the sink must be protected
with a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). Plan on dedicated circuits for the range, dishwasher, garbage disposer, refrigerator,
and microwave oven. A microwave oven will trip the breaker if it’s on the same circuit with another large appliance,
such as a refrigerator. Spacing of outlets - bathrooms Bathrooms – Every bathroom needs at least one GFCI-protected
outlet by the sink, even if the vanity lighting fixture includes an outlet. Keep the receptacle far enough away from the bathtub
and shower to prevent the use of electric shavers or hairdryers while bathing. New updates in the Electrical code suggests
to upgrade the bathroom circuit to a 20amp. Laundry – Provide at least one GFCI-protected duplex receptacle in
the laundry area. The laundry receptacle must be on a dedicated 20-amp circuit. Unfinished Basement or Attic –
Provide at least one outlet. Outdoors – Include a GFCI-protected duplex receptacle at the front and rear of the
house. Garage – Provide a GFCI-protected duplex receptacle for each parking space. Detached garages may not need
any outlets. Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter – GFCI protection opens the circuit when a ground-fault is detected
– such as when someone gets an electric shock. Outlets over the kitchen and bathroom sinks, in the laundry room, garage
and outdoors have to be GFCI-protected. Installing GFCI outlets is easy, assuming the circuit includes a ground wire. we need
to remove the old outlet and replace it with a GFCI outlet. You don’t need to have a GFCI outlet for every
receptacle that requires ground-fault protection. Several regular outlets can be wired to a single GFCI device. Circuitry
in the GFCI outlet will protect all attached receptacles. That’s the good news. The bad news is that GFCI outlets require
a ground to work properly. If the old circuit has no ground wire, we will have to run grounded cable to GFCI outlets. Arc-Fault
Interrupter – The NEC now requires these special breakers for circuits that serve sleeping rooms. Regular breakers open
when there’s an overload. Arc-fault breakers open any time the circuit is creating sparks, even if there’s no
overload. Outlets per Circuit – Plan on six duplex outlets per 20-amp circuit. Parko Home Renovations may suggest
ways to put 10 or even 12 outlets on a circuit and still meet NEC requirements. The code doesn’t prohibit mixing light
fixtures and outlets on the same home run (connection to the breaker panel). Lights – Every room needs either
a switch-operated overhead light or a switch-operated outlet. The code requires the switch to be located by the door at the
room’s entrance. Parko Home Renovations can run the wiring to any ceiling fixture that’s still in good
condition. If the fixture is worn, broken, or simply unattractive, replacing it is a simple task. But don’t go overboard
on wattage, such as replacing a 75-watt bathroom fixture with a 500-watt heat lamp. If your choice of replacement fixtures
is a fluorescent, be sure there isn’t a grounding problem. Many fluorescent fixtures require a ground wire. If we
install a ceiling fan or a chandelier, plan on Parko Home Renovations to set a ceiling fixture box specifically rated for
that purpose. Smoke Detectors Nearly all of the Michigan communities require some type of smoke detector. When
performing a major renovation the building code dictates to have a central wired smoke detector system. This system is wired
so that one detector will trigger all detectors connected. Locations for detectors include and are not limited to one on each
floor, one in each bedroom, and one located outside the bedrooms. The most common are ionization detectors that recognize
products of combustion even before flame is visible. Other types of detectors recognize smoke or detect a rapid rise in temperature.
If you have the opportunity, we recommend an AC-powered detector with a battery backup, rather than a battery-powered unit.
Surveys show that a high percentage of battery-powered smoke detectors have a dead battery at any given time. For that reason,
many building codes require AC detectors, some with a battery backup.
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Wiring
Residences Nearly all new homes today are wired with non-metallic sheathed cable, but that may not be what you find
when you work on an older house. Depending on its age, you may have some surprises. Knob and Tube Wiring Homes
built before about 1930 usually had knob and tube (K&T) wiring. Wires were strung between porcelain insulators driven
into studs and joists. If wire had to pass through framing, a hollow porcelain tube was inserted in a hole drilled through
the stud or joist. Conductors were usually single strands covered with cloth insulation. You won’t find a ground wire
on K&T. In those days, only lightning rods were grounded. K&T that’s given trouble-free service for nearly
a century could probably do the same for another century, if no further demands were made on the system. But that’s
not likely. Because it isn’t grounded, doesn’t have enough capacity, and its insulation isn’t worthy of
the name, some insurance policies exclude coverage for homes with K&T wiring. For that reason alone, many of these older
homes have already been upgraded. Aluminum Wiring Aluminum wire is another type that’s
no longer used for interior home electrical systems. Aluminum is a good and durable conductor and is usually less expensive
than the more popular copper. However, late in the 1970s, electricians and code officials began to recognize a problem developing
in homes with aluminum wiring. When aluminum wire carries current, it warms up and expands, just like copper. When it cools,
the aluminum contracts, just like copper. But unlike copper, aluminum connections oxidize during the cool-down phase, creating
resistance where conductors join. With time, the resistance grows into arcing – a spark that passes through the corrosion
(gap) between the wire and the connector. Given the right conditions, that spark can ignite a fire. Aluminum Wiring The
aluminum wire itself isn’t the problem. It’s the wire connections that are to blame. You don’t need to rip
out all the aluminum wire you find. But it’s prudent to check connections in a home wired with aluminum. Electrical
devices used with aluminum wire should be rated specifically for aluminum (usually stamped CO/ALR or Al/Cu). Look for signs
of overheating, such as blackened connections or melted insulation. If you elect to extend an aluminum circuit using copper
wire, your electrician will need to use a special crimping tool made just for the purpose. When crimped, the wire connection
must be covered with anti-oxidant grease. Aluminum wire is still widely used for residential service entrance, though
not for concealed wiring in walls and ceilings. Wires run between the house and the public utility grid are larger in diameter
and require very few connections. That makes aluminum a good choice. For interior wiring, the price advantage of aluminum
over copper usually isn’t worth the risk or the extra trouble, though aluminum wire with a copper coating is used in
some communities. Non-Metallic Sheathed Cable Non-metallic sheathed cable, called Romex or "rope"
by electricians, is the most common wire type used in homes today. The NEC classifies it as Type NM cable. (Type NM-B cable
is identical but has a slightly-better temperature rating.) Romex has two or more insulated conductors and a ground wire,
all covered in a plastic sheath. It’s popular because it’s inexpensive and easy to install. You can use NM cable
in wall cavities where the wire is protected from physical damage and unlikely to get either wet or hot. When it’s run
through 2" x 4" stud walls, protect the cable at each stud with a metal plate to prevent damage from nails. Romex
cable can be stapled to studs, rather than attached with nail-on hangers or supports. Most electrical codes permit the use
of plastic (rather than metal) outlet boxes with NM cable. You can’t use Romex for exposed wiring on walls if
it’s within 5' of the floor. But most inspectors will approve Type AC (armored cable) for that purpose. AC is like Romex
but includes a flexible aluminum cover that protects it against physical damage. If the inspector won’t accept AC cable
for exposed runs, we may have to install conduit. Unlike electric cable, conduit includes no wire. It’s a protective
tube through which wire is pulled. Conduit is used in most commercial buildings and occasionally in residences, such as in
the service entrance mast where overhead wires terminate at the entrance cap. Flexible (flex), EMT (electric metallic tube),
GRS (galvanized rigid steel) and IMC (intermediate rigid conduit) are the most common types of conduit. Flex is a hard metallic
tube with enough flexibility to snake through studs. EMT is lightweight but not flexible. GRS conduit is heavier. IMC falls
between EMT and GRS. Each of these types has specialized uses. Ground Wire Electrical wire size is
measured in American wire gauge (AWG) and usually abbreviated with the pound sign. For example, #14-3 indicates a 14-gauge
wire with three conductors (and probably a separate bare ground wire). The smaller the gauge number, the bigger the wire and
the greater its current-carrying capacity. Most circuits in a home are rated at 15 amps and use 14-gauge copper wire. Circuits
for kitchen appliances should be rated at 20 amps and use 12-gauge copper wire. Circuits for an electric water heater, air
conditioner or electric clothes dryer should be 30 amps and use 10-gauge copper wire. An electric range requires 6-gauge copper
wire and a 50-amp breaker. All of these cables should include a copper ground wire. Usually Type THHN wire is used with
conduit because it has a heat-resistant thermoplastic cover. THHN is available in many colors to simplify the identification
of conductors after the wire is pulled in the conduit. Small gauges are solid wire. Larger gauges are stranded wire, usually
19 strands per conductor. Stranded wire is a slightly better conductor than solid wire. It’s also not as stiff, so it’s
easier to pull stranded wire in conduit. Use Type UF cable for underground runs or in damp locations. It’s not
required by all codes, but common sense dictates that buried UF cable be trenched deep enough to make accidental damage unlikely.
Either enclose the UF in PVC conduit or lay a warning tape in the trench over the wire before it’s backfilled. Protect
cable with conduit wherever it’s exposed, particularly where it exits the residence. For outdoor wiring, junction boxes
and outlet boxes must be rated waterproof, and all receptacles must be GFCI-protected.
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Kitchen appliances You’ll never see an old kitchen with adequate electrical
service. Upgrading the electrical service is a prime reason for remodeling most kitchens. Consider the following checklist
when planning extra runs from the electrical service panel. Note that some building codes require as many as three ground-fault
receptacles in the kitchen. If you’re adding base cabinets, figure which electrical outlets have to be moved. Kitchen
Electrical Service Checklist: Ceiling fixture Ceiling paddle fan Clock in soffit Dishwasher Disposer Electric
range Range hood Soffit lighting (fluorescent strip) Light fixture recessed over the sink Light fixture
over the desk Microwave oven Oven Refrigerator Three ground-fault receptacles Small appliance
outlets Trash compactor T.V. Wall or ceiling exhaust fan Wall switches
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 OWNER WORKED ON ABC TELEVISION
SHOW EXTREME MAKEOVER HOME EDITION
PARKO HOME RENOVATIONS,
Phone: (734) 812-3884
Michigan Home Improvement Michigan Home Remodeling Michigan Improvement Contractor registration form
site map
Home Imrovement and Remodeling Complete Home Improvement and
Remodeling. We offer Kitchens in a week and Bathrooms in four days. Custom Fireplace remodeling. Visit our web site for more
details and a list of services that we offer.
| Services: | Home
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